I chose the James Webb version just because I think its the greatest telescope ever built. You have several choices of spiders and they vary how the diffraction spikes are shown. The upper telescope assembly holds the focuser and the spider. One goes just above the the mount interface and the other can go on top, or just below the UTA. You can watch the short on YouTube Notice how I can easily adjust the telescope in small increments at high magnification. I love the motorized version so much more since it’s a snap to view any object at high magnification. I also wanted ball bearings so that I could motorized the telescope which I have done. Later I took them off and installed Ball Bearings which worked out better for me. So I printed out the Z bearings and it works ok. When I first built it I used a rocker box. I could not see any difference between these two files. There are 2 files, one says Planets and the other does not. The mount interface holds the telescope and allows you to pivot up and down. Be sure to center the mirror in the cell since it will improve your image when properly centered. I just glued the mirror in place with plain old silicon sealant and it worked great. Here is a clip from the main tutorial showing how this is done. You just need some wiggle room to that you can properly align the lower mirror. On the lower side of the hex bolts, install 3 small springs approximately 1/2″ long. I went to a couple of hardware stores and could not find the right hex bolts, so I just took a 10-24 machine screw several inches long and jammed on a nut prior to installation. This has to be done before you glue the mirror onto the cell. Once this is all printed, you need to install the hex bolts below the mirror itself. The cell has adjustment screws so that you can properly collimate the telescope. The lowest part is the LTA or lower telescope assembly. If so, then use this scaling factor to print out all the parts. Print the scaled part again and see if it work. Find the difference in % and the scale the parts in your slicer. To fix this, measure the actual diameter of your 1/2 rods and then the actual diameter of the printed out test part. Print this out as is and see if you can slide the rods through the hole. The test part should be printed first to test to see if it fits This part has a hole in it the same size as 1/2″ steel rods that support the telescope. The first thing you need to do is to print out the small test part.
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